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Im trying to get firm pricing on these but so far its proving difficult.
I live 13 miles from the dealer, I can go and take a look if it would help.
For what its worth;
When my car is on my double platform car lift it flexes such that the doors are hard to close, when on the ground standing on the 4 wheels all is well. I do have the chassis modifications but question if they too could be improved. I have the car sitting on solid rubber blocks between chassis and platforms in 2 places on each side.
Follow up I came across this on another forum from another Dart owner.
I’ve had a dynamator fitted to the Dart, apart from needing to turn the alternator within the casing to avoid fouling the oil filler (Dart specific), it works well. One point tho’, you need a smaller pulley on it to make the alternator run at a higher speed.
Apparently they have Bosch innards with a Chinese casing:-
The author followed up with this comment.
No it doesn’t work well, it’s just burnt out my Pertronix electronic ignition, apparently the power they put out has horrible spikes, due to being a Chinese copy and cheap.
Martin, the Distributor Doctor diagnoses an auto electrician and a couple of extra diodes, but knows this well.
After reinstalling the repaired Dynamator, it failed to control the voltage and was charging at 16 volts. As I did not want to fail the electronic ignition I elected to purchase another Dynamator. As I needed to remove the end of new unit to reverse the 12 volt supply terminal hardware for clearance I checked the internals of the unit. I must say it is assembled much better than the first and uses different components. I then installed it on the engine in the test stand and found it to function correctly charging at 14.4 vdc.
As luck would have it while running the engine the water pump elected to fail its seal……so the saga of getting engine ready for the car continues.
Update to my Dynamator conversion on the engine still in test stand, I run the engine a couple of days ago and the Dynamator had no output. I have set up the system to drive the voltage to the field via relay with a fuse inline. The 10 amp fuse was blown so I disassembled the Dynamator and found the electrical leads from the commutator to field coil both failed at the solder joint. It is potentially poor quality control which is disappointing for sure.
I have repaired the wiring and re-installed the Dynamator, will run the engine again in the next couple of days, then report the results.
After I fitted my electronic ignition to engine while on test stand initial results were very good, test stand is set as negative ground as was electronic module. After the next update to new plug leads with ‘built-in’ extenders moulded to fit directly to the spark plugs the electronic module failed . In communication with UK suppliers of electronic module they stated the plug wires were not suitable. I purchased a new module and used other plug wire set as all runs fine. I have a complete spare distributor with dual points , rotor , cap and the moulded plug leads that takes about 10 minutes to convert back as wiring between coil and distributor is different. Engine runs similar on test stand with either set up — long term road test will tell durability.
I do have a a Dynamator on the engine which functions very well so far again long term road test will tell durability.
I have done that change to an SP250 and did change to a smaller diameter puller which I purchased out of the UK – links below. I did use them on the Dynamator which I purchased local in USA. So far only run on my engine in the test stand but functions very well.
Well done for sure and thanks for updating my log on.